Monacoers Daily News 4/16/2024 - Monacoers (2024)

On 4/21/2023 at 9:54 PM, joefromperry said:

2003 Signature. Suddenly, when I turn on the power to the Aladdin and push the joystick up, the red light on the joystick lights, but no Aladdin data shows on the Panasonic screen. However, the screen displays radio stations, etc. just fine. Bedroom monitor shows nothing either. Looking at the individual modules on the top of the bay, none are lit. I dug the control unit and video unit from in the dash, and both test for 12 volt power, and all plugs are seated. The only fuses I've found, both inline in the dash and in the front run bay, are all good. I do have one purple wire that is unplugged, or never was plugged in. Maybe snooze with a similar setup can take a picture to show me where the wire goes. Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: problem solved (sort of). Although I haven't found where the purple cable attaches, I did solve the problem of no data showing up on my display. Once I saw all the little boxes on the top of the bay were receiving power and sending data, I realized the problem had to be just with video. Turns out the purple RCA cable in the picture above was connected to the Panasonic control box using a connector to another RCA cable. I decided I needed only one cable, so eliminated the connector and other cable, and suddenly I had the Aladdin video back. Just to make sure, while the Aladdin data was showing on the screen, I went back to the original setup with two RCA cables and a connector, and the display was gone again. So now I'm good. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I will be looking to upgrade from the Panasonic monitor / radio, but until I do, at least I have the Aladdin info back. Here's the culprit:

73481257232__B016AE92-BD7C-464C-ABDA-702244FE9E94.heic

5 hours ago, Robert92867 said:

I had to lay this out many years ago to see if I could make a certain turn.

That is great. If I’m reading that correctly the tire needs 15” to turn all the way out. I don’t have that much room. I will have to let it back down and back it straight out of garage and jack it up in the yard. Thank you!!

On 4/12/2024 at 5:36 PM, promontory said:

Mike! My name is Jonathan. Thank you for the excellent write up and the video as well! I have essentially the same generator. Would you mind sharing with me how you safely accessed the back side of the generator? Do you air up and the slide under or do you use jacks / stands? I have to slide under mine to tend to the corroded battery connections on the back side, but I don't seem to come close to squeezing under, even when aired up. Wondering how you get under there, if you don't mind sharing. I'm brand new to my 2008 Dynasty. Thanks!

I can't speak for others, but my coach does not have hydraulic leveling jacks, air only. When I have to get under or behind the generator, I raise the air springs up in the front and put a couple of jackstands under the chassis rails. With the generator slid out the front there is a nice void just behind the generator and in front of the steer axle where I can sit up or even get on my knees to work on the back of the generator.

It's a wireless remote.

All the lights = Low Beams, HIgh Beams, and the Fog Lights.

8 hours ago, Keith H. said:

I know this is a very stupid question. I searched and didn't find a thread, so here goes!

1. When the Inverter manual speaks of charging batteries, is it talking about the hiuse batteries or the chassis batteries?
2. Which batteries should I put the Battery Temperature Sensor, chassis or house?
when I got my coach it was just lying on the bottom of the battery compartment not attached to either house or chassis batteries.
3. When I use the battery cut iff switches to cut power to both chassis and house batteries, will that automatically shut down the inverter/charger?

All good information….maybe a few caveats….you did NOT SPECIFY the inverter brand.

BATTERY TEMP SENSOR. Be cautious. If the sensor is defective, which is why a lot have been removed, it could cause the inverter to shut down or act erratically or drive you crazy. This impacts the Magnum as well as Trace/Xantrex/Freedom brands. The BTS is SUPPOSED to go on the most REAR Negative terminal. BUT, if it shorts to “Ground” you will have issues. Many folks do NOT use their BTS….pulled it. Many folks will affix it to the case of the most rear battery and do NOT want it connected “elextrically”. It is a thermocouple….that’s it….there is no mystical circuit interaxtion with the negative. You want it to “read”, like a contact thermocouple the case or battery temperature. A piece of Gorilla tape to hold it to the case….then daisy chain zip ties for a circumferential attaching back works.

Battery Cut Off Switches.

YES….Chassis

HOUSE….it depends. Yours is PROBABLY YES. But later on, at least in 2005 or so. NOPE! Monaco cabled the inverter directly to the House. There was a 300A fuse (lower ends) and a 400A fuse Dynasty and above. Folks have gone crazy finding that fuse as they were told the Inverter was “Direct”. Turn OFF the house and chassis. Disconnect the solar or cover the solar panel. Use a VOM and measure the rear Positive to GROUND….let the inverter sit…as there may be a stray capacitor that shows voltage.

For example…a Fused (not connected via the House Disconnect Magnum inverter) inverter on the later models….NEVER shuts OFF….from the control panel inside…You have to MANUALLY do a shutdown…. Folks swore that when the lights inside were OFF….it was OFF. Nope…it was just in a standby mode….and like a TV, it has a parasitic load and WILL run down house batteries.

BEST SOURCE….Download or look at your prints. Or the manual.

Even though you will get excellent information here, sometimes there are blanket statements that are used….and the subtle nuances like the above, as some assumed that ALL MONACO rigs were 100% alike, electrically. This causes folks to go down paths that are incorrect and in some cases, they made modifications that were incorrect trying to make theirs…..”like the rest”.

Welcome….

21 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Your best move if you plan on keeping the fridge till 'End of life', is to install an ARP Fridge Defend, along with one or two of their fans!

I have a single fan Fridge defend for a 1200 Norcold, I no longer use. it was on mine for a short time. Cheap if someone is interested.

Jack James. How did you run a wire from driver's area to the rear. I needed to run a wire from under the dash to the lower outside of the firewall. Could not find any existing boots. There is a removable upholstered panel at the bottom of the lh area that houses shifter and switches

Nothing. I ended up poking a hole in the boot for the steering column. It was temporary so no big deal

08 Dynasty

1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:

Recognizing that Lionel doesn't have the simple BigBoy setup, I would still like to ask: Can the Bluesea internal contacts be as easily cleaned as the BigBoy when the time comes that it gets a voltage drop across the unit?

I searched the manual and the website and I cannot find any mention of a cleaning or repair method so my guess is no.

I may have a grouping of the switches you are requesting. I have a 2009 Dynasty 45 Stafford IV with Kongsverg CCM and Eaton switches. I am currently having the dash rewired to analog switches, but will retain those functions in the CCM which control the driver arm rest switches. These continue to work, when the CCM harness connections are in place. All of the dash switches, through the passenger arm rest and step panel, are not functioning. My tech has been unable to diagnose amy of these switches, and has not been able to determine if the remaing CCM is the issue. If anyone else has had any experience with this condition, feedback is welcomed. If successful with the conversion, and I will know within the next thee weeks, I should (5) of the Eaton three switch cluster, an additional single Eaton switch, and an Eaton two switch cluster for your need. If you would prefer, please feel free to contact me.

Chuck Greco

607-972-4333

Chuck

Thanks for contacting me I am getting the ones I need from Bob125 but if something happens with this transaction I will contact you.

You should contact Frank McElroy on this site he can repair the OEM switch modules.

Do not throw the ones you take out away.

I Just sent you a PM also.

Thanks Steve

55 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I searched the manual and the website and I cannot find any mention of a cleaning or repair method so my guess is no.

I’d call Blue Seas. They are great on specific instructions. Past that, I cannot recall if anyone has had an ML-ACR long enough to need to clean the contacts. I SUSPECT that a latching coil is used. The Big Boy always turns on and off when you remove AC power….or when you don’t need BIRD charging….so it cycles …

Maybe you can “make me smart”….does the ML-ACR cycle on and off.

The Salesman switch works great for most….as in it Latches IN or OUT. BUT, it was a poor design. Folks that constantly turn it on and off have issues. In addition, it was a bit undersized. Technically, one should shut off ALL DC devices….such as lights and fans and turn off ALL AC items. Then TURN IT OFF. It works GREAT for Dynasty and up, who don’t use it as a Master Light Switch. They power all off. Then they turn off the Battery Cutoff switch….wait….then back on. That reboots the Intellitec MPX. A LOT more convenient than going outside and flipping switches….

There are two solenoids available from HWH. RAP39015 is a large diameter solenoid is no longer available from HWH and was replaced by RAP0642.

The RAP0642 solenoid is the large diameter solenoid-2.25" diameter and Solenoid RAP90729 is the small diameter one 1.5" diameter.

Solenoid RAP90729 has been replaced by Solenoid RAP42632. RAP90729 has a nut to release hydraulic pressure and RAP42632 has a white lever. They are interchangeable.

The correct solenoid for your coach is RAP42632, the small diameter solenoid and it will have a white pressure release lever instead of a nut to release the hydraulic pressure.

The older solenoids all had the nuts to release the hydraulic pressure and HWH superseded them to the new solenoids with the levers. All the solenoids are interchangeable.

The RAP90729 Solenoid is still available thru the Internet. Just Google HWH and the part number on either solenoid and you will find many new solenoids for sale

Tom, I followed the procedure you laid out and everything came back on. Thanks for you help and expertise! Once again this board comes through for all of us who are much less knowledgeable about the systems in our coaches.

Dan

2 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

If when you press the wall light switch the lights don't turn on that implies one thing to me. The green LEDs on the boards on the closet light up when the circuit is supposed to be on, and are off when the circuit is supposed to be off. What happens when you command everything to turn on by holding the Master Off switch? (Not the salesman switch but the wall switch labeled master off typically up front and also by the bed.) Do all the lights turn on in sequence and thus the green LEDs also turn on? If so I would try carefully pop the cover off the wall switch(es), unscrew the two screws to pull it off the wall, unplug & replug the backside wiring connection. A bad connection could break the blue or yellow loop serial operation. Check for unusual kinking in the wires. You could also unplug/replug the edge connectors on the closet boards. This assumes you have done the CPU reboot mentioned above ... Although not sure why Tom mentions multiplex chassis stuff I wouldn't think you have and I can't think of a connection to the front run box???

GOOD CATCH….I did at least 10 of these yearerday. My iPad will NOT Copy and Paste the links to our files. I have to paste and recopy (PITA) the link in a email format. Here is the one that I MEANT to include….Thanks.

Totally agree with you. Don’t do anything until you reboot or refresh the system. The problem that @Constwkror Dan has here is a “CLASSIC” of a faulty reboot or killing power. I DID THAT. Took Frank M and myself a few minutes to troubleshoot and analyze. You will also, possibly, have a circuit that will light up on one keypad,,but be DEAD on another….and all the other individual buttons light and such. A REBOOT where there is a momentary contact….then off…then on drives a MPX crazy…. TRUST ME. I disconnected the positive on my 16 Vette and added a ring terminal for an external maintainer. Next service….OMG….the tech paniced…he cleared the 20 or so codes…..all was well. He wanted to know “How did you do that?”….

One OTHER OMG is that Monaco daisy chained some switches…..instead of putting them in parallel. My GUT says reboot. YES…you can loose a switch….but that is usually ONE….and not random on others as the whole MPX Data Buss is a loop.

I will edit the other post.. here is the correct one, that i meant to post.

Besides 'tapping' on the solenoids, did you feel them?

When I had similar issues, one of my solenoids was getting energized when it shouldn't be, and was hot to the touch!

The MLACR latches when power is applied after a short delay. When power source is removed it closes after a short delay. But from I see/hear it doesn't continually cycle on and off.

I installed on in the Transit Van I outfitted for my wife, added an extra battery so she could run lights and the exhaust fan without having to worry about draining the chassis battery. After I start the van and start driving after a very short period the MLACR latches and then unlatches after I shut the van off. Works great.

Good morning, I came out this morning n found the rig leaning heavy to the right. First time for me.

I aired it up n checked for leaks with soap. Didn’t find any on the pass front. I checked the rear and found a couple fittings with minor leaks, nevertheless they leak.

one come from a valve on a small black tank sitting up high. The other looks like a tee with two green hoses. Will these green hoses unscrew from the fittings without damaging the hose?

the fitting with the red hose is not the problem , it’s above it.

I’ve attached a couple picks. I’m surprised I didn’t see anything up front, I’ll give it some time and see what happens.

thnx

14 hours ago, rschley said:

Hello Tom,

VOM checked input at the solenoid connector and have 7 volts dc coming in. Thinking that I can safely conclude a bad solenoid. Any thoughts on an HWH part number ? I will be calling the company tomorrow and Googling info yet tonight.

Thanks for your help.

Ron

OK. Lets stop and chat.

First….was the solenoid coil and pigtail hooked up. If so and you measured 7 VDC, PROBABLY bad coil. Now….if UNPLUGGED and you measured. OPPS!! OTHER ISSUES. I would do this. Isolate and find each of the Passenger Slide solenoid slides. THEN, measure one as it moves the slide…. Then measure the voltage on the pigtail to it….NOT PLUGGED in. You will see anywhere from 12.7 VDC (no Shore) up to 13.1 or so (higher if the Magnum is in Bulk Charge). That would be the NORMAL NO LOAD Voltage from the switch. When the coil is hooked up, it will drop down….probably not that much.

BUT if the coil is shorted….and it is high resistance….it will drop. You may have done that or know that, but some folks don’t….

The REASON….Monaco did some funky things. I can’t find a good print on the “rest” of the system. I can see the switches. ON SOME HWH systems, there is a “BOX” (clear?) that the switches feed and there are two outputs. One goes directly to the pump solenoid…..that starts the pump. That happens on ANY of the switches. The second is the CORRECT output to the solenoid. If you have this and are only getting 7 VDC….an issue.

NOW….you need to check the NO LOAD (Pigtail unplugged) Voltage….if 12 VDC….great. BUT, comparison when you don’t have circuits is the next. Compare load and NO LOAD on a working one. THAT WAY YOU KNOW.

I’d do that before I ordered parts. If the OTHERS have 12 VDC Load (plugged in) and No Load…. YOU’RE on the right track.

Good Luck…

Tom-Ron

I attached a couple of wiring diagrams in case you may not have them.

HWH Hydraulic System Trouble Shooting.pdf HWH Hydraulic System.pdf

On 4/12/2024 at 6:53 PM, cbr046 said:

03 Endeavor same issue. I had a shop check them out and one had a leaky wheel seal. Seal, shoes and drums replaced and not much different.

Be sure to use your engine brake with your foot brake.

- bob

Got home from the weekend trip + a trip to dump tanks with two hard stops. Braking *IS* improved and noticed no ABS beeping. Maybe the new shoes / drums had to bed in a bit, or maybe the shop greased the slack adjusters . . . or both

- bob

UPDATE. Finally chased down what I needed….

The switches send a circuit inside the MH to the HWH Control Box. Two things happen.

One relay sends signal to the Hydraulic Pump Motor Solenoid. That STARTS the pump.

Another relay….and there are SIX of these,,,,sends a signal to each valve. 2 for each slide.

Even if the relay coil was shorted out…., we don’t THINK that you would be reading 7 VDC.

Need to leave Solenoid plugged in. Put meter probes on either side….read across the two terminals on each side. Should be 12 VDC or so….maybe higher. Don’t know HOW you measured or whether you used a chassis ground.

SO….back to troubleshooting. If you are getting a TRUE 7 VDC to the Soleonid….probably a bad relay inside the HWH control box.

IF you don’t want to fool with it and drive hone…. Unplug solenoid ….Then get a 12 VDC pair of wires. One ground….one 12 VDC. Have someone push the retract switch….then you power or manually energize the coil or the solenoid. When the slide is all the way end…have your assistant yell STOP. Now you can drive…

Until we know how and where you measured….this is the most logical… but more than likely a relay inside the main HWH control box. ODDS ARE…the switch is OK…otherwise….NO MOTOR.

Left a Voice Message on your phone. Call me…

Thanks…

38 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

DR.4 film posted a picture of the latch. You need to rout out the door. It mounts at the bottom. Sorry. I have a picture but did not know how to add it. DR.4film's pic is nice and large.

Could you please post a link to DR.4 film's post? I searched and could find anything.

Thank you

2 hours ago, Gweedo said:

I don’t have the brake system on the toad. Just the brake buddy

Question is….re AirForceONE…. Did a previous owner have one installed. If you crawl under and look at the cannisters from the rear brakes….there will be a “T”, I THINK going to “somewhere”. The other side will NOT have one. The AFO works when you apply brakes….an AIR signal to the rear. The AFO system is more complex than the M&G…. The AFO then has a “system” and check valves to prevent a bleed down.

If you have had MH since new…obviously NOT. BUT who knows what the PO did. If you are curious….download the AFO manual. There are pictures of air circuit and the additional components. I have the M&G and all I have is the T. Now, if you have left over AFO parts….undo.

FWIW…NEVER, EVER depend on a PO to have installed or had installed something RIGHT. We have seen folks cut into hoses or wires that were absolutely the WRONG ONE. I would NOT have thought that the AFO air supply, which is different from the brake line T signal, would have been plumbed in to the leveling system….

BUT, after 16 years of reading most every post and helping troubleshoot…..Nothing, quite literally, surprises me.

May not solve the issue…but if you are not PO, then eliminating the AFO system by looking at their manual is the only way to be sure.

Someone may solve it….but if one of the candidates is AFO….gotta chase hoses…

Good Luck….let us know…

Thanks,

Thnx. I’m the second owner. Coach has sat for cpl hours now, the r-front is 1” lower than the left.

I’ll see what I can see regarding the AFO system, I know what it is but I know nothing about it. I’ll look in my folder but don’t recall seeing anything about the AFO.

Okay got back under. One line feeds an outlet at the hitch, that comes from the top of the unit.

I’ll attach some more pics. But from what you guys are saying it appears I have the AFO.

I have always lost air over time but not like today. So far it’s been a few hours n the right front is still 1” lower than left side but, it hasn’t gone down in the past hour.

2 hours ago, Gweedo said:

question…can the AFO cause the lean like that?

NO!

When I bought my coach one of the fittings on the AF1 reservoir leaked just like yours, but it can't cause your air bags to leak down on one side!

Okay good to know. I sprayed the air bag pretty good n didn’t notice a leak. Anyone know if the leveling valve can cause this? Or is there something else I should be looking at. I’m going run out to the shop n c if anything has happened in the last few hours

So I went out. So far the RF is same at 40”. Lf is 41”. R r is 41” n Lr is 42”. I have lost 19lbs of air I’m sure because of the leaky valves I guess I’ll see if it’s sagging in the morning. All tires pressures are equal.

I know I should know this but I assume it has the leveling. Rr8r. The right front was dipping the most. See photo, I’m assuming this is the leveling rod

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
96 EVO 8 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo 8 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
96 EVO 8 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo 8 hours ago

Thank you!

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Ivan K 8 hours ago

The rod and valve in your pic is part of ride hight system and if that valve was leaking, it would be dropping both front corners.

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo 8 hours ago

A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Scotty Hutto 7 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Ivan K 7 hours ago

If you don't have a 'fitting shop' near you, you can get DOT rated compression fittings on Amazon or elsewhere since it appears to be a brake line. Easier to find if you are eliminating the small line and looking for a straight coupler.

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Tom Cherry 7 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo 7 hours ago

A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Tom Cherry 7 hours ago

front ac/heat pump unit
grizzly 7 hours ago

So I did everything and front unit still just comes on when turned on BUT now I have another issue.All of a sudden I have no power to either wall thermostats front or rear. Just all went dead. What could cause that? I am puzzled. Everything was working then bam nothing.

A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Scotty Hutto 7 hours ago

A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Donflem 6 hours ago

Wow Scotty good catch. I’m going to check mine in the morning.

TSD Fuel Card
cbr046 6 hours ago

A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
timaz996 6 hours ago

With the shape of our roads you got to wonder where all of the fuel tax money goes...Good for you to catch it.

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
timaz996 6 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
96 EVO 6 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo 5 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
timaz996 5 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
96 EVO 5 hours ago

2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo 5 hours ago

Ok gotcha.

A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Dr4Film 3 minutes ago

We all know exactly where all of the fuel tax money goes. How do you think people with average pay jobs get so rich!